BMF rebuild for the Space Monkey. Another Chopper hitting the streets.

This bike was one I built for Rhonda and I to ride then sell back in 2006. After riding it for a while, selling it, getting it back and then riding it some more I sold it to my buddy Jack "Space Monkey". 

 We replaced the 124" motor that was previously propelling this thing down the road with an 80" Harley Davidson Evolution (that we took out of my 2000 FXR4 when we put the 124" S&S engine in it) and did some cosmetic changes. We swapped the Fat bobs for a sporty tank that we did some work on to make it fit nicely.

 He then had it repainted and then striped by our local favorite Hugh Hoffman. Know Phat Chix!

 This thing is a blast to ride with it's power to weight ratio, killer Brembo brakes including their awesome hand controls.

This has a Kraftech frame that is 2 up 35 degrees of rake. It uses a stock length springer with a 21" front wheel on a 90/90-21" Avon Venom and a 18 x 5.5" rear wheel with a 200 series avon rear tire. The BDL 2" belt drives fits great and works great and looks good. This bike can be built new for under $20k using high end parts ( including labor and paint) or less if more economical parts are used. The seat pan is shop built using the same techniques as featured in our blog post, found here http://wisnercycles.blogspot.com/2012/11/how-to-build-custom-fiberglass-seat-pan.html

XS650 Yamaha weld on hardtail conversion. Part 2

 All the pieces are now fit to our liking, and I have tacked all the  pieces into place. We must have measured about 25 times from various spots to confirm everything was straight.  Since we don't have a frame jig , we use our welding bench to fasten everything down as good as possible.  This is to help prevent everything from moving while we weld.

 The welding produces alot of heat, which makes everything warp.  To help minimize movement, be sure to move from joint to joint and be sure to be patient and let it cool some between passes.  Many things have been ruined by simply not taking some time to let the project cool down before welding some more.  Here I  am getting ready to do some welding.

 After we have done some welding, we take the time to do some more measuring to make sure nothing has moved.  This also helps you kill some time to allow the "heat affected zone" to cool down.  Here you can see that we utilize a .750" piece of all-thread to keep the axle plates the exact measurement apart that TC Bros. specifies for this hard tail kit.

 Here I am doing some more welding.  We also utilize the motor to keep the frame straight and perfect,so be sure to torque all the mount bolts to what they will be when your final assembling, it can make a difference.  This particular area of the frame requires so additional fitting, as the ends that connect to the backbone are not "coped" , they are just cut straight, and it make for large gaps at the top and bottom.  We go through alot of work to fix this, and is one of the secrets that we will keep to ourselves and let you figure out if you are going to weld it up yourself.

 This is a good example picture to show you how we have welded this as much as possible before we unbolt everything to finish up the welds we can't get to with the motor in place.

In this picture you can see how I had to throw alot of heat into welding up the underside of the backbone.  It has a large "heat affected zone" but it's not to big, and doesn't connect, so I think it will be very strong.  Stay tuned to our blog for the next installment of How-To install a weld on hardtail kit from TC Bros on a Yamaha XS650.

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XS650 Yamaha hardtail conversion with TC Bros rigid rear section. Step 1.

 We are pretty sure you know what a  Yamaha XS 650  looks like together, so we will start with everything striped off.  You don't need to remove the motor, but it makes it easier.  With our fabrication bench, we need the front end off also.

 Since this bike is going to be for Tom's long time girlfriend, I let him do all the grunt work.  Here he is making the first cut, removing the upper seat rails.  Cutting close to the backbone, so there will be less material to remove to make the backbone smooth.

 After doing all the cuts on the rear subframe, and doing the cuts on the lower frame rails, which need to be make .750" of an inch from a mount on the rail, you are ready to cut the seat post loose.  We cut them like in this picture to get the subframe out of the way, then you can cut the seat post allot closer to the lower motor mount.

 After that last cut you will know have two pieces.  Now is the time to make that cut on the seatpost, below the lower motor mount.

 You will notice that the frame sprung out of shape some what, but don't worry, when you bolt the motor back in, it will all re-align itself ( sometimes with a little help from a prybar).

 Now your ready to finish cleaning up the cuts, to get them ready to weld back together.  You will also be ahead if you finish grinding off all the remnants of the seat rails, so you won't have to try and do them once the hardtail kit is installed.

Here Tom is using a round file to deburr the lower rails to make sure the rear section goes on easier.

Be sure to stay tuned for Step 2, were we will install the hardtail kit.  We are a dealer for TC Bros, so if your in the market to buy a kit, or would like us to install it, be sure to contact us.

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