Showing posts with label Iowa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iowa. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Dyna buckhorn handlebars to T-bars with custom speedo mount How-to.

We had a customer come in with a stock 2010 Harley Davidson Superglide who didn't like like the stock buckhorn handlebars.  He wanted his bike to have more of a "club style" look like something off the "Sons Of Anarchy" TV show.  He also wanted 1 1/4" bars for that fat look.


First thing we did was track down some T-bars that felt good to him, looked right, and also that wouldn't force us to buy all new cables and extended the wiring. We also knew we needed to do something about the factory riser/speedo mount, so we tracked on down of a late model sportster, this one in particular off a 2007.

We made sure the cables worked with the new bars, then switched the factory dynaglide speedo mount out for the sportster one.  We then had the owner sit on the bike, and we mocked up were the speedo would get mounted on the bars.  He wanted it to look good, be able to see it, and also not hit a little Ness fairing that he would be mounting later.
 I then got on the lathe and made two mounts to weld onto the handlebars.  We knew the customer wanted to have the bars powdercoated black, so we didn't worry about the chrome finish on the bars.
 Here you can see we laid down some nice tig welds to mount the bungs.  This speedo mount will be heavy, and we don't want anything to break off so good welds are very important, and will also still look nice when powdercoated, without grinding.

 Here is a top view of how the mount looks.  We bolted the new mount to the bungs, then tack welded the bungs to the bar.  This kept everything nice and straight, so when we were done, everything lined up and worked perfectly.


 Here is a shot of it when everything was finished and re-installed.
Here is a shot with the customer, Scott Torkelson, sitting on the bike.  The bars moved his wrist to were he was more comfortable, and were pulled back some to make it more comfortable on long days.  You can also see he has a straight view on the speedometer and indicator lights.  Thanks for letting us help you out Scott.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Broken shock bolt removal on Harley Davidson EVO Softail

 This shows a how-to remove a broken shock bolt in the swingarm of a Harley Davidson Evolution Softail. They are the same on all softail models, FXST , Custom, Standard or FLST, Heritage or Fatboy.  I'll start with the swingarm off the bike, as the manual will show you how to get that off.  You will notice that the bolt is broke off below the surface of the swingarm, so this one is a little harder than normal.  Usually the bolt breaks off because someone lowered the bike to much, and the shock hits the transmission mount studs, and then shears off the bolts.  This one must of had a weak spot in the bolt, and just broke eventually.  First thing I do is put some StrongArm Brand penetrating oil one the bolt, on both side if possible.  Find it here  StrongArm Brand Penetrating Oil.  We use this exclusively in our shop for many things other than just removing stubborn bolts.
 Normally I would use a larger nut than I did on this one. Because it was below the surface, we beveled the one side of the nut, so it would go down in the hole farther.  We did that so we didn't weld the nut and stud to the inside of the hole on the swingarm.
 I then used the TIG welder to heat up the broken bolt for a short time.  I then set the nut in the hole and welded the broken bolt to the nut.  I completely fill the nut with filler rod, and even make it convex to give it the best chance I can to make it stick.  Then let it cool down for a minute or so, and gently try to start turning it out.  If it doesn't move at first, wait until it's a little cooler and try again.  Hope this helps you out, if not, get ahold of us and we will do it for you.

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Wednesday, October 17, 2012

XS650 Yamaha hardtail conversion with TC Bros rigid rear section. Step 1.

 We are pretty sure you know what a  Yamaha XS 650  looks like together, so we will start with everything striped off.  You don't need to remove the motor, but it makes it easier.  With our fabrication bench, we need the front end off also.
 Since this bike is going to be for Tom's long time girlfriend, I let him do all the grunt work.  Here he is making the first cut, removing the upper seat rails.  Cutting close to the backbone, so there will be less material to remove to make the backbone smooth.
 After doing all the cuts on the rear subframe, and doing the cuts on the lower frame rails, which need to be make .750" of an inch from a mount on the rail, you are ready to cut the seat post loose.  We cut them like in this picture to get the subframe out of the way, then you can cut the seat post allot closer to the lower motor mount.
 After that last cut you will know have two pieces.  Now is the time to make that cut on the seatpost, below the lower motor mount.
 You will notice that the frame sprung out of shape some what, but don't worry, when you bolt the motor back in, it will all re-align itself ( sometimes with a little help from a prybar).
 Now your ready to finish cleaning up the cuts, to get them ready to weld back together.  You will also be ahead if you finish grinding off all the remnants of the seat rails, so you won't have to try and do them once the hardtail kit is installed.

Here Tom is using a round file to deburr the lower rails to make sure the rear section goes on easier.

Be sure to stay tuned for Step 2, were we will install the hardtail kit.  We are a dealer for TC Bros, so if your in the market to buy a kit, or would like us to install it, be sure to contact us.

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Tuesday, October 16, 2012


This is a production bike prototype we built when we co-owned a motorcycle manufacturing company.
If  this bike gets you excited let us know and we can build you one similar to it, starting at $14k, for a brand new motorcycle .

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